Taboan Subic



Zambales unfolds for its welcome visitors a contrasting duet of scenery:  on one side of the highway, miles and miles of sandy beaches and blue waters; on the other side, not so far-off, undulating mountains, most of them still covered with lush forests and animal life.  This duality represents what is special about Zambales and its history.

Against the glinting natural background, the province’s 13 municipalities appear temporary and shifting.  The place, nestled on the western side of the Philippines, facing the China Sea, exudes an aura of primitiveness, of remaining unconquered - all 361,110 hectares of it.  Against this sense of impermanence, Zambales is negotiating its fate.

In the space between mountain and sea, people have made their marks on the land: a church announcing the presence of a town, a rustic cemetery, a rice field, a mango orchard.  From a mountain bend, a bustling harbor city asserting a modern air.

Change unravels.  History happens. 

In the beginning, the first migrants arrived across the sea, from Celebes. They were superstitious folk who worshipped ancestral spirits, or anitos.  Called "zambali" by later Spanish colonialists - from the Malay term "sambal," meaning worship - they populated the land that from then on would be known as Zambales.

Their arrival displaced the original inhabitants -the short, kinky-haired and ash-skinned Aetas, who delved deeper into the mountains to pursue their culture as hunters and gatherers.

Spanish conquistador Juan de Salcedo first arrived in 1572, but it was only in the early 1600s that Spain exercised effective control - with the establishment of the province's first towns:  Masinloc in 1607, Iba in 1611 and Santa Cruz in 1612.  These towns all served as provincial capital, but the honor remained with Iba owing to its strategic location.

Zambales used to be governed from Pangasinan, and only in the late 18th century was it declared as a separate entity.  Ilocanos settlers penetrated from the north and built settlements that subsequently grew into what are now the agricultural towns of Castillejos, San Marcelino, San Antonio, and the agro-fishing towns of San Felipe, Cabangan, and the southern part of Botolan.

Tagalogs subsequently broke through the impenetrable forest screen and formed fishing villages at the southernmost tip of the province, which later became Subic and Olongapo. From the east, Kapampangans brought in the bright flavors of their cuisine, their love of learning and their trading acumen.  

Zambales half-emerged from the historical and cultural onslaught with an uneven mix of 13 towns: Botolan, Candelaria,  Palauig, Cabangan, San Felipe, San Narciso, San Antonio, San Marcelino, Castillejos, Subic, and a chartered city, Olongapo.

In 1895, the seafaring Spaniards, cognizant of the value of a safe, natural harbor, constructed a naval base in Subic.  Only three years later, the Americans took over the facility, and in the decades to come would turn it into the largest U.S. Navy support station in East Asia.

One of the most illustrious sons of the province of Zambales was Ramon Magsaysay, who was born in Castillejos in August 1907, and elected as the Philippines' seventh president in 1953. He served as one of the country's most popular and best-loved leaders, until an unfortunate plane crash untimely extinguished his life.

In 1991, Mount Pinatubo, long lying dormant in the middle of Zambales, erupted in what was the second-largest volcanic eruption of the century. Tons of sulfur dioxide and clouds of ash buried towns and forced the evacuation of the U.S. naval base.

In what would later be a testament to the success of volunteerism and determination, Subic Bay was converted into a commercial zone through the efforts of some 8,000 residents of Olongapo City, under the able leadership of Mayor Richard Gordon.  The Subic Bay Freeport Zone became the Philippines' first successful case of military base conversion into a tax- and duty-free zone.  

Today, Subic Bay is home to many hotels, restaurants and food outlets, shopping centers and commercial activity. It has, at the same time, maintained the charm of its beaches, mountainsides, ecotrails, jungle and wildlife.

Zambales indeed continues unfazed by the disaster that befell it twenty-something years ago. Its people, still smiling, pick up the pieces with hope, steadfastness and an enveloping sense of optimism. 

The 6th Taboan Festival is happening in Subic from February 24-26, 2014. There will be a conference with the theme "Winds and Waves, Wars and Words" at the Subic Holiday Villas Conference Hall.